Heat Wave

This morning we awoke to the sight of the sun rising through pink clouds. Beautiful, but as they say, “Red sky in morning, sailors take warning,” and sure enough, the western sky was the gunmetal grey that portended thundershowers. We decided to have what breakfast we could before it reached us, then wait it out in the tent. As it happened, the brunt of it passed south of us, and we watched the other side of the river getting it as we ate our oatmeal. But we still caught enough to be glad of the tent a little bit later.

Then we got on the bikes and chased the storm for the first hour or two, riding on progressively drier streets until all trace of it was gone, and the heat was returning again. We got sent onto a 20-mile detour by a massive section of road construction, but this finally took us out of the oil country, and at last we rode in peace on state highway 200 towards the east.

After another couple of hours of full sun we were starting to get that dazed feeling and started looking for a place to have lunch. We eventually found one in the hamlet of McClusky, and after considering our prospects for actually making our originally-planned campground now that the detour had thrown us as far off as it had, we ended up deciding to stay at a motel behind the restaurant. There were precious few places to camp in this part of North Dakota (it was all farms, no spare land for recreation), and not even many places that had motels. The bird in hand…

I regretted sorely that we were not camping, for this might be our last chance to sleep a night on the prairie. But I couldn’t say we weren’t experiencing North Dakota. This town that we were just outside of had a population of a few hundred, and it was surrounded by wheat fields scattered with the pond-lakes common in this section of North Dakota. These pond-lakes were surrounded by green rushes waving in the wind, and harbored numerous ducks and other birds. The people we met were friendly and straightforward, with the exception of our innkeeper, who was impatient and didn’t seem to enjoy her role. She was also a staunch conservative, with a “Defeat Obama” bumper plastered prominently on the side of her cash register.

We took naps and waited until the heat abated, which wasn’t really until just before sunset. Then we went for a run touching on a couple of the pond-lakes, breathing in the heavy grass smells permeating the air. Aside from the main highway and the couple of gravel sideroads we ran on there was nothing. We were in a small oasis amidst grass- and farmlands stretching for as far as we could walk or even ride in a day in every direction. North Dakota.

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189 miles.

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Oil Boom

We pretty much picked the longest possible way to ride across the fourth largest state in the union, but today, our third day in it, we were planning to finally kill it off. We still had 150 miles or so, but as usual we were fairly determined in the morning and knocked most of that off. We hit the border in early afternoon, but then ran into heavy road construction. We learned the reason soon enough – oil. Western North Dakota around Williston sits atop an oil-containing geological structure known as the Bakken Formation. Either the discovery of oil here was late or the cost-benefit ratio delayed the decision to exploit it, but now the whole area was buzzing with extraction-related activity. Wells were being drilled, oil was being pumped, and, unfortunately, natural gas was being flared. All of this caused a lot of truck traffic, which took a greater toll on the roads then they were built to bear. Just about every major highway in the region was being resurfaced, widened, or both. The state apparently got a cut of the oil revenues though, so it could afford to pay for the roads.

The practical implication for us two humble motorcycle travelers coming in on US 2 was that we hit stop-start traffic and construction zones starting around the border and continuing 20 miles in to Williston. Williston itself was in full boom-town mode. The population is said to have doubled from 14,000 to 30,000 since 2010, but if there are fewer than 70 or 80,000 there I would not believe it. The built-up area was extensive and there were busy 4-lane streets going everywhere.

We navigated our way through these to lunch and a coffee shop. The heat was intense, and we decided to kill a couple of hours inside air-conditioned environments until the sun got lower in the sky. We saw mainly men and overheard lots of conversations about oil wells.

Finally around 5:30 we picked up some groceries and headed out of town to the east on state highway 1804 towards Lewis and Clark State Park along the Missouri. Although one might have expected a scenic byway like this to have little traffic, this was oil country, and trucks zoomed frequently in both directions despite the late hour. It appeared that things operated on a 24-hour schedule here.

Unfortunately this proved true of the road crews as well, and we sat for 30 minutes before a single-lane section, then crawled through it stopping every few hundred feet to let road construction vehicles go by. By the time we rolled in to Lewis and Clark, the sun had set, and we hustled around to find a site. It turned out that the best sites at this particular campground were reserved for tents, and so we were in luck to get one in a grassy area by the river.

I fell asleep wondering how the sound of the night insects could be so soothing when I’d probably be disgusted if I found one of the insects themselves crawling over me.

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235 miles.

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Oil Boom

We pretty much picked the longest possible way to ride across the fourth largest state in the union, but today, our third day in it, we were planning to finally kill it off. We still had 150 miles or so, but as usual we were fairly determined in the morning and knocked most of that off. We hit the border in early afternoon, but then ran into heavy road construction. We learned the reason soon enough – oil. Western North Dakota around Williston sits atop an oil-containing geological structure known as the Bakken Formation. Either the discovery of oil here was late or the cost-benefit ratio delayed the decision to exploit it, but now the whole area was buzzing with extraction-related activity. Wells were being drilled, oil was being pumped, and, unfortunately, natural gas was being flared. All of this caused a lot of truck traffic, which took a greater toll on the roads then they were built to bear. Just about every major highway in the region was being resurfaced, widened, or both. The state apparently got a cut of the oil revenues though, so it could afford to pay for the roads.

The practical implication for us two humble motorcycle travelers coming in on US 2 was that we hit stop-start traffic and construction zones starting around the border and continuing 20 miles in to Williston. Williston itself was in full boom-town mode. The population is said to have doubled from 14,000 to 30,000 since 2010, but if there are fewer than 70 or 80,000 there I would not believe it. The built-up area was extensive and there were busy 4-lane streets going everywhere.

We navigated our way through these to lunch and a coffee shop. The heat was intense, and we decided to kill a couple of hours inside air-conditioned environments until the sun got lower in the sky. We saw mainly men and overheard lots of conversations about oil wells.

Finally around 5:30 we picked up some groceries and headed out of town to the east on state highway 1804 towards Lewis and Clark State Park along the Missouri. Although one might have expected a scenic byway like this to have little traffic, this was oil country, and trucks zoomed frequently in both directions despite the late hour. It appeared that things operated on a 24-hour schedule here.

Unfortunately this proved true of the road crews as well, and we sat for 30 minutes before a single-lane section, then crawled through it stopping every few hundred feet to let road construction vehicles go by. By the time we rolled in to Lewis and Clark, the sun had set, and we hustled around to find a site. It turned out that the best sites at this particular campground were reserved for tents, and so we were in luck to get one in a grassy area by the river.

I fell asleep wondering how the sound of the night insects could be so soothing when I’d probably be disgusted if I found one of the insects themselves crawling over me.

235 miles.

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Back to the Plains

We’d seen all sorts of warnings on the news and in online weather reports about a big storm system coming up into our area, so we decided to get on the road early and scoot out of its path. We had a couple of coffees from the motel, wolfed down some bars, and were rolling by 8. The weather was cool but clear, but as soon as we went a few miles north and turned east along the bottom of Glacier National Park, we could see mist roiling out from around the peaks we were heading into.

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Soon it was grey/white and 55 degrees. We were a bit underclothed, but didn’t want to stop to beef up. We kept thinking the sun would burn through but it didn’t, until finally after about 40 minutes we broke down and changed – and 5 minutes later we burst out into sunshine.

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We had thought about stopping in Glacier for some canoeing, but the chill in our bones and the worry about the rain spurred us on. We rocketed down and across the plains, feeling glad for the warmth and the coming easy riding, but sad for the loss of the mountains, which we’d not be seeing again.

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Glacier had been slow going, but we still hit 140 miles by noon, riding along US 2, and were now making steady progress on straight roads. Around 4 we hit the camping area, near Nelson Reservoir outside Havre, but it was hot, dry, and shadeless, and as we had in Dinosaur when leaving Colorado, we couldn’t see any way of remaining there until it cooled down. So we hopped back on the bikes and rode 80 miles to the next place where there was anything, Malta. Here there were a couple of urban campgrounds and a cheap motel; being dead from the long, hot ride, we opted for the latter.

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I spent some time after we got the room going over the bikes. They were holding up surprisingly well despite over 4,000 miles under tough conditions. I had to adjust my clutch cable and that was it. I’d also been lubing the chains every other day or so, but aside from that there had been zero maintenance required. Wood knocked on, hopefully they’d make it the remaining 2,000 or so to home.

353 miles.

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Finally Heading East

I managed to get a good nights’ sleep, and though I still felt far from 100%, it seemed better to make some attempt to move on rather than remain rotting in our motel for the rest of our lives. So we gathered ourselves together, finally finished juggling our stuff back from backpacking to motorcycle configuration, and got underway around 11.

It was a cloudy day, which made the temperature pleasant, but the riding somehow gloomy. That the mountains were mostly thickly forested and came down close to the road didn’t help matters either. Everything felt closed-in and gray, kind of the opposite of how you’d expect to feel on a motorcycle trip out west, but it was so good to just be out on the road again we didn’t care.

And it didn’t even phaze us that much when we hit rain near Kalispell; we just switched our camping plan to a motel and rolled into town in our rain gear. Finally making progress east!

It was a little bit of a bummer to be in a city, which Kalispell basically was, after walking and riding through so much beautiful nature, but this would be basically the biggest one we’d hit until we’d gone basically another half-width across the continent. There really wasn’t a lot here at this latitude in the U.S. between Washington and New York.

But speaking of cities, this leads us back to the earlier discussion about evolution and the future of man. As I mentioned there, in the progression from chemistry to life, from single-cellular life to multicellular life, from there to intelligence and language, and from there to persistent culture, we’ve seen more and more complex interactive processes emerging at successively slower timescales. These emergences are happening more rapidly and based on the timing alone it seems we may be due for another. And in fact, one may have already happened.

Cities appear very much like multicellular organisms played out again at a higher level – great plants or immobile animals in which humans take the place of cells. We can see equivalents of nervous and circulatory systems in the telephone and internet networks, the roads, the water pipes, and so on. Some of these also extend out to other cities, serving as means of communication. Within the city we can observe all sorts of life-like processes. For example, if a large pothole develops on a street, or a power line is severed or water pipe broken, it will eventually be detected and a crew sent out to repair it, reminiscent of the mobilization of platelets and other specialized cell types in response to a wound. Zoning practices ensure that like functions remain nearby like, just as cells as organized into tissues in organisms. Immune-like functions exist to repel invaders (this has been weakening in recent centuries) and neutralize unruly elements (criminals, cf. cancer). Cities engage in cooperation and competition with one another for resources. And although cities incorporate many nonliving elements made of metal, concrete, etc., this does not differentiate them from multicellular organisms. The latter, too, incorporate nonliving components, such as hair, (part of) bone, xylem, shell, etc..

So are cities the next phase in the evolution of life? Or are they just something like beehives, ant colonies, or coral reefs, interesting aggregates of organisms and inorganic structures but not destined to play any grand role on life’s stage? To answer this we need to go beyond just pointing to emergence and look at the details of what has emerged.

In fact, if we look more closely at the past record, we see both emergence and refinement. Emergence: the origin of life; refinement: eukaryotic cells. Emergence: multicellular life, refinement: sexual reproduction. Emergence: intelligence; refinement: language. Emergence: culture; refinement: writing and diagrams. Emergence: electronic representation; refinement: ongoing. Very roughly, these refinements increase the integrity and robustness of the structures that emerge.

Eukaryotic cells have nuclei, separating the genetic and control structure making possible a greater variety of cellular functions. Sexual reproduction, by mixing genes each generation, allows longer-generationed multicellular organisms to keep up evolutionarily with their faster reproducing single-celled brethren. Language is a particularly interesting one which may serve similar functions in human minds to what RNA/DNA does in cells. Essentially, DNA provides a reliable, persistant, digital encoding of complex protein structures – a small change in the chemical environment will not corrupt the base pair sequence, so that the same proteins can be produced over and over. Without DNA, small changes in the cell’s chemical environment could easily accumulate over time and destroy the delicate balance of chemical reactions that makes it alive. It would also be difficult for cells to reproduce reliably, because again small differences in the two halves of dividing cells could accumulate. Analogously, language provides a means of encoding complex narratives and ideas, and communicating them to others. Language has allowed ideas to be clarified, built upon, and shared between people, enabling the tremendous development in human civilization and culture.

It’s clear that cities have undergone a number of refinements since the first ones. Water and waste systems have been considerably improved, the nervous system (electrical communications) and a kind of muscular system (electricity to begin with) have been added. There has also been a general increase in size. Do cities have anything like language or DNA though? They do make use of human language in libraries, construction records, engineering diagrams, and the like. It would even seem that a city could reproduce itself to an approximate extent based on this information. But it’s difficult to say whether these are as reliable a representation as DNA. It’s also clear that reproduction per se does not play as central a role in the evolution of cities as with multicellular organisms. Most change occurs through internal development as technologies improve, systems are upgraded, and styles evolve.

Without going into great length to cover the details, I would posit that cities fulfill just about every criterion for life and organism that come up with. That said, one could also look to nations or subcultures as larger or smaller alternative units of higher-order life, and perhaps be equally right. One is faced with the same boundary-drawing problem as when distinguishing between ecosystems, symbiotic pairs or groups, and organisms. While the lines are clearer in these biological cases, the principle of separating out independence from interdepence is the same.

And of course there are other places to look for the next step beyond humans in the story of life – for example artificial intelligence or bioengineered super-organisms. We will come to some of those topics later. But I wanted to point out that not all futures involve humans as conscious architects; we may equally well become (or be becoming!) unwitting participants in a higher order, no more aware of the fact than the cells in our bodies are that they are part of an organism, not just living in a local environment where a red-colored river fortunately carries nutrients by that they need.

One last point relating back to the talk of rockets and humans spreading into space. Supposing we don’t find a way around the speed of light, there are many who believe we might still colonize other worlds by sending very large space ships containing self-sustaining communities of individuals. The contents of the ship would be something very like a city. And while generations of humans would live and die on the journey before ultimate arrival at the target world, the city itself would make the journey whole and intact. We have seen that the timescales of each successive level of life organization are longer; it may be that the timecale and typical lifespans of the level above us will be better suited for going to the stars.

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170 miles.

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“Hiking” Fourth Day – Back to Sandpoint

In the morning we got up early and broke camp for the drive back to Sandpoint. We’d be dropped off there, while A. and S. would continue back to their flight in Seattle.

The first portion of the drive was made in fairly short order, and we found ourselves at our motel some hours before we could check in, and not desiring to go to the trouble of suiting up and riding our motorcycles anywhere. No problem we thought, it’s only a couple of miles in to downtown Sandpoint, and flat ones at that; we’ll just walk in there and have breakfast.

But one should never underestimate the trials and travails of suburban hiking: dusty roads with narrow shoulders, blasting traffic, and the general lack of any accomodation for pedestrians. Not to mention the classic “you can’t get there from here”. Unless you’re a car, but sometimes not even then, although in that case it usually only takes a minute or two to do the ridiculous drive around to avoid whatever obstacle it is to sane progress.

So it took us a while, but eventually we arrived in downtown Sandpoint, sweaty but in good spirits in anticipation of a hearty breakfast. This we indeed had, and then followed it up fairly shortly with a beer of all things, the time of the breakfast having not been that early. A little more walking around the downtown peeking into shops here and there, and then we walked back by a different and altogether more pleasant route, although the rise in temperature detracted somewhat from our pleasure at this.

We checked in to the motel, took showers, did laundry and all that sort of thing, ending with a buffet dinner that was probably larger than necessary, but indulged in as some sort of reward for having completed the hike successfully.

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4 miles.

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Hiking Third Day – At the Lake, Then Not

We awoke to a beautiful morning at a snow-fed gem of a lake with no bears. Once the sun was properly up and the breeze was wiping off the glass, turning mirror to aqua, we alternately swam and lounged around the shore. Despite original thoughts of day-hiking to bag a nearby peak, everyone proved content to rest after the preceding day’s exertions. Unfortunately not all of us could rest the whole day, however, as the length of the hike in meant some would need to hike back out today and camp near the cars in order to make their flights. Päivi and I were among this number, not because of flights but because of needing to get back a day early to begin our eastward journey.

And so we hiked out. There was actually a larger lake at the trailhead, but as often the case with mountain lakes, bigger is not always better. We had to camp out of sight of it anyway, and we found the convenience of a picnic table a poor substitute for the pleasures of the remote site and our companions of the night before.

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(Photo by Eric)

4 miles.

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Hiking Second Day – Bushwhacking Failures, but Trip Success

Hiking Second Day – Bushwhacking Failures, but Trip Success

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This morning we awoke by the river, fired up to commence the bushwhacking phase of the trip, eschewing the trail for a direct route up and over a ridge to a nearby lake. The interesting part about this is, we didn’t even have a decent topo map of the area we were in. We were relying on memory, dead reckoning, and a large-scale map of the surrounding wilderness area. We did also have a GPS with some limited-resolution topo map data, but using it showed us more about the limitations of a small screen for getting a clear picture of our situation than the situation itself.

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After some more or less extended discussion and kibbitzing, jazzed up a bit by the relative distaste of certain members of the party for certain aids to navigation, we came to our conclusions and headed off – straight up the ridge slope. Unfortunately, in addition to it being steep, it was evident that the forest here had been logged, meaning it was full of smaller trees closer together, and even occasional sections of underbrush. It was tough going simply traversing across the slope, let alone going up it. We made progress at a snail’s pace, but burned energy more like hares.

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Eventually, these conditions proved sufficiently adverse to bring us to abandon the effort, particularly as we knew the trip down the other side of the ridge would be at least as steep. And so we left the score at Terrain 1, Humans 0 and headed back down to the trail. We’d do an end run around the ridge by going back to the trailhead and hitching up to the other, then reversing our planned outward hike to the destination.

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This ended up working out OK, though it made for a long day (and longer for some of us than others), and we all celebrated our success together in the evening. We again hung our food, finding a slightly better situation to do this than the night before, had a fire, and went to bed to all sleep well. There was no wind and very little wildlife (and thankfully no bears), so that it was one of the quietest nights we’d spent in a long time.

8 miles.

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Hiking First Day – Dwarfed Among the Cedars

Today we were going to be starting a 4-day backpacking trip into the area near Sandpoint. Backpacking is in some ways a step backwards to reconnect with our caveman past. We don’t quite live off the land, but we do live on it, and we go to sleep listening to the sounds of nature and not the sounds of cars. Being completely away from any kind of schedules, telephones, email, etc. has its relaxing effect, and we forget about our cares and responsibilities surprisingly quickly. Paradoxically, although we are returning in some sense to past ways, the freedom also lends us perspective and leads us to think about the future.

For example consider the human race itself. Some people think our future is going to be all about rockets, maybe conquering the speed of light, and spreading out into the wild black yonder. While that’s romantic in a seafaring sort of way and makes for fun science fiction (and I’m certainly all in favor of it), I don’t think that’s it. First of all, it’s not even a future really, it’s just more of the same – making man out to be little more than a colony of bacteria spreading beyond its Petri dish. Second of all we’re not really going in that direction right now anyway. Since Apollo, the U.S. has spent a pittance on space, and other nations have followed suit. Our resources are going into other areas. And third and most important, the conventional spacefarer conception completely ignores rather significant trends in the history of life. So today we’ll consider that for a bit.



Take a look at the picture above (from here), or better yet, spend some time playing on this site: Chronozoom.

Let’s go through a brief summary. 4.6 billion years ago, Earth formed. Just 700 million years later, life started. It took until 3 BILLION years after that for multicellular life to get its start. That was 800 million years ago. It took another 400 million, give or take, for vertebrates to emerge. Dinosaurs and mammals came on the scene within another 200 million. The pace is starting to quicken after a slow start. But now things really start to happen. Chronozoom doesn’t show it, but apes originated somewhere around 30 million years ago. That’s around 170 million from the dinosaurs. From there to primitive humans (small brains, but upright walking) takes only around another 26 million, roughly one-sixth as long. From primitive to modern humans (homo sapiens) again takes one-sixth as long – just 3.8 million years. From there to the earliest dawnings of civilization we can detect – evidence of cities – about 190 thousand years – now only one-twentieth.

Now we are just 10,000 years ago, around 8,000 BC. Writing and the Egyptian and Sumerian civilizations emerge within around five thousand years of that (one fortieth!), and the Mohenjo-Daro civilization in India – the first meditators and yoga practitioners. Another 5,000 years brings us to 0 A.D., and cultural flowerings have occurred in the Mediterranean, the Subcontinent, and the Far East. Modern religion, literature, mathematics, and science are all here. Specialization is the norm rather than the exception. 1,500 years more bring us the printing press and wide use of maps, and 300 years after that, the mechanical age with factories and industry, and chemical energy sources are beginning to supplant the harnessing of animals. Another 100 years and engines are commonplace, electrical power is generated and delivered, and we begin to transform the face of the planet. This is 1900.

Just 50 more years, and we are in the “tele” age: telegraph, telephone, and television are new, electronic means of transmitting information rapidly over a distance. And finally, 50 more years, the merest fraction of a fraction of the length of the whole story, and microprocessors are invented, computing machines process information. Physical distance begins to dissolve, as humans interact on a daily basis with others thousands of miles away, practically any place on the planet. Mobile computers called “smart phones” become the rule, and more and more of our lives are either mediated by electronic representations, or outright lived virtually.

So what is happening here? In the moves from single-cellular to multicellular life, from life to intelligence, from intelligence to writing and recorded culture, from recorded culture to electronic representation and transmission, from representation and transmission to processing, a new pattern of organization is emerging each time. Consider multicellular life for example. Single cells that used to all do the same thing begin doing different things from one another, working together – and in fact unable to survive on their own. But now a larger-scale organism exists and interacts at a new level. Ultimately such organisms can perceive patterns of light and sound and act in complex ways in response, whereas individual cells could at most detect the brightness of light falling on them, and perhaps move towards or away from it. But notice that the timescale of interaction for whole organisms is not necesssarily any faster than for cells, but in fact a good deal slower. Action-reaction, development, reproduction – it’s all slowed down relative to the underlying level.

The origin of life, and the origin of human culture (in the sense of patterns of behavior transmitted over space and time), are both similar, in that something begins to happen at the higher level that is of a completely different order than the lower level. Underlying life there are molecules engaging in chemical reactions according to fixed laws, but the delicate systems of hundreds of types of molecules, dividing membranes, codes, and transcribing machinery that interact with each the environment and each other, and reproduce, are another thing entirely. Similarly, a style of building houses, a way of communicating with sounds, a method of preparing food are all things of a different nature than the humans who give rise to them. Just as all the molecules in a cell may be changed out for new ones and still it is the same cell, individual humans are irrelevant to cultural patterns. And again in both cases, the timescales expand at the emergent level.

In the grand scheme of things, life originated quite a while ago, while culture is relatively recent. What is interesting is that these emergences seem to be occurring more frequently as time goes on. And of course the unavoidable question is, “What comes next?” There’s no reason to believe that human intelligence or even human culture is the end state of this whole evolutionary process. Can we infer anything about what is to come by looking at the preceding series?

This entry has already grown too long, however, so we’ll have to come back to this later.

Anyway, the hike. On the first day, we all met up in the town of Sandpoint, Idaho and then headed off in two vehicles to the trailhead. There were nine of us, knowing each other mostly from graduate school, and some having seen each other more recently than others. Most of us had been down to Baja Mexico together on some occasions, and some had gone on hikes or canoeing trips as well. It was a good group – conversations were usually stimulating, spirits were invariably positive, and trip planning was suitably inspired on the overall scale and suitably vague in the particulars.

In this case we were visiting a little-known part of the Rockies on the northern Idaho – Montana border, and the rough plan was to leave a car at each of two trailheads, and hike from one to the other partially along trail and partially bushwhacking. We got a bit of a late start in the morning and then had some trouble with finding the other trailhead and getting the cars situated, with the result that we ended up actually starting out around 3 in the afternoon. This was still OK though, it just meant we’d have more of our work cut out for us on the second day.

The trail started out through an unlogged forest made up of giant cedars along with some pine and spruce not much smaller. We associate big trees in the U.S. primarily with out west, especially California, but, although some of the species out here did grow bigger, this is primarily because exploitation was slower to arrive here, and conservationism had time to catch up. The east had its great trees as well, from the pines and hemlock of Pennsylvania to the stately elms and towering oaks of other states. If any of us today were able to walk around the forests that once stood here we would spend until our last breath exhorting the men of that time to leave at least some of these woodlands untouched.

We made our way through this forest, feeling very small, until we rejoined the stream we’d last seen at the trailhead. We pitched camp beside its rocky bed and cooked and ate in falling light. There were grizzlies here, and those of us without bear canisters hastened to hang our food while we could still see it.

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3 miles.

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Arrival in Sandpoint

This morning we had a leisurely time of it, saying goodbye to our hosts, having breakfast and then lunch before finally setting off for Sandpoint. Road construction and closures meant it took us more than a half hour to get out of the small sister city to Spokane that we were in, but the rest of the journey went smoothly and quickly. The roads were marked as scenic on the map, but somehow we found them disappointing compared with things we’d already seen.

Perhaps some of it had to do with our direction: East. We’d officially hit our furthest point and turned around. Somehow there’s always a sense of letdown at such times, even though fully half of the journey still remains. It’s as if the furthest point is the climax, and everything else is all downhill after that. Ridiculous, of course. We’re not even following the same path back, but completing a loop. But there’s no messing with human psychology. The Journey is an archetype, and going Back Home is as fundamentally different from going Out There as you can get. We’ll just have to fool ourselves as best we can (playing at temporary amnesia) to get the most pleasure out of the trip back.

In Sandpoint we checked into our motel and set about making preparations for our backpacking trip. We bought food and juggled our case and pack contents. We’ve been travelling admirably light on our motorcycles so far, but it’ll be nice to be one step lighter still on the trail, carrying everything we need on our backs. And leaving the road and all mechanical contrivance behind. It takes the separation of a day’s walk into the woods for me to truly feel connected with nature and disconnected from civilization. Not that I am anti-civilization or am not happy to come back out afterwards. But on a backpacking trip (in the right places) there is absolutely no dispute that the here and now is pristine nature and not human meddling or intercourse.

One of our friends on this trip likes to take this even further and leave the trail behind as well. I don’t have this need myself, and prefer not to have the extra hassles of navigation and uncertainty, but I guess to him the trail represents something similar to what the road does for me: connection back to civilization.

83 miles.

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